In 1992, Thierry Mugler’s Angel stunned fragrance aficionados as the first true gourmand with notes of cotton candy, chocolate, caramel and patchouli. “At the time, it was considered ‘too sweet to be elegant’ by some, but it was a hit and became iconic!” says perfumer Erwan Raguenes of dsm-firmenich. In 2004, Aquolina’s Pink Sugar (a personal favorite of mine in college) became the dessert-like scent of choice and has resurfaced on TikTok as of late as a nostalgic favorite. Today, gourmand scents are more popular than ever, with an increase in search volume of 184 percent this year, according to Spate data, and more growth to come.
Why Are Gourmand Perfumes So Popular Right Now?
“Gourmand fragrances are booming because they offer emotional comfort, nostalgia and instant appeal,” says Raguenes. “They smell edible, feel indulgent and evoke joy—just like self-care in scent form. Social media also plays a big role in their popularity, too, because of their strong, relatable scent stories.”
If smelling like you slathered yourself in birthday cake is not for you (though many people like this and prefer it), a newer fragrance category called neo-gourmand is generating buzz. “It celebrates edible, dessert-like scents, but with a twist,” says Raguenes. “Neo-gourmands elevate the traditional food notes to a more refined and artistic level, incorporating unconventional or unexpected notes, such as savory or woody elements.” Senior perfumer Darryl Do of Delbia Do Fragrances adds that “the neo-gourmand trend seems like the natural progression of showcasing the gourmand notes used in perfumery over the years.”
Key Notes in Gourmand and Neo-Gourmand Fragrances
For fall and winter, Raguenes says neo-gourmand scents fulfill our craving for warmth and comfort like their conventional counterparts, but with added sophistication. “Expect the traditionally sweet notes like vanilla, caramel, toffee, almond, cherry, marshmallow, coffee and chocolate, but combined with contrasting notes. These may include savory or smoky accents like burnt sugar, charred woods or toasted nuts; salty/umami notes like sea salt and soy sauce; green/herbal notes like bell pepper, matcha, fig, basil and eucalyptus; and fruits like yuzu, lemon and candied citrus.”
Do predicts that notes like citrus fruits—orange and lemon, specifically—and nuts will have a big role to play in neo-gourmand scents because they are popular in both food and fragrance. “Perfumers have quite a few essential oils and aroma chemicals in their palette to create a balanced, complex blend between edible notes and sophistication,” he says. “This is where the perfumer’s style and creativity can be showcased."
