Hair loss, specifically thinning hair around the edge of the scalp, is a delicate topic. Whether your edges look thin due to hormonal changes or tension-pulling hairstyles, regrowing the hair can be difficult. When you’re ready to begin the journey, finding the right kind of product is key. Hair growth oils have been celebrated for their nourishing ingredients said to stimulate growth, while hair serums have used a skin-care-like approach to target the issue. With both product types leading to viral and very public reviews, determining which is best only throws another kink in your hair growth journey. Ahead, we chatted with two trichologists for the lowdown on liquid versus oil formulations, including the benefits, drawbacks and when each works best.
Featured experts
- Kerry E Yates is a trichologist and the founder of Colour Collective
- Mandy Buechner is a trichologist
Liquid vs. oil formulas
Formulation is key with any product you put in your hair, especially for growth. Since over-the-counter products are not medicated, it’s helpful to understand the ingredients targeted for hair growth and how they work. With liquid or water-based formulas, serums and tonics can be absorbed into the scalp. “These products should be applied on the scalp for the most effective results,” says Kerry E Yates, trichologist and founder of Colour Collective. She explains that applying a serum directly to the problem area can help establish a healthy scalp, which in turn, supports follicle health.
Contrarily, hair oils are much thicker in consistency and serve a different purpose than a hair serum. Where liquid serums are fast-absorbing, oils tend to sit on the surface. But this doesn’t mean they don’t have their benefits. According to trichologist Mandy Buechner, oils hydrate, nourish and seal in moisture with vital lipids. So, how does this translate into hair growth? The experts note that while hair oils don’t offer the absorbing ingredients, hair oiling or massaging the scalp with a nourishing oil has plenty of benefits. “Massaging the scalp helps to alleviate tightness and will help promote optimal scalp health, which is ideal for maintaining gorgeous locks,” says Yates.
What are the drawbacks to each formula?
“While hair oils seal in hydration and deeply moisturize, they can cause buildup on the scalp and block other treatments if overused,” says Buechner. Certain oils may be comedogenic and can clog the follicle, hindering future hair growth. Serums don’t have this issue but generally require consistent use to ensure results. In general, Yates suggests giving yourself a full 90 days to assess whether or not a product is working. Buechner also notes that liquid formulas may not be as hydrating as they prioritize delivering key actives to the scalp for growth over hydration. “Some serums, especially those with alcohol or actives, can feel drying, but pairing them with a leave-in conditioner can boost moisture,” she says. That said, hair oils work best as a pre-wash treatment, while serums are better for daily use.
How to apply a hair serum vs. hair oil
Regardless of the kind of product you’re using, a massage will go a long way in seeing results. According to Yates, massaging does two things: it helps distribute the product evenly and releases scalp tension to improve blood flow. “Massaging the scalp for a minimum of four minutes daily will relieve tension and tightness while improving blood circulation and decreasing hair loss,” she adds.
Though oils and serums should be massaged into the scalp for optimal results, timing is just as important. “Oils work best when massaged into the scalp and left on overnight before washing, while serums should be applied to a clean, dry scalp and directly to thinning areas to ensure active ingredients absorb properly,” notes Buechner. In today’s age of beauty cocktailing you may be tempted to use hair serums and oils simultaneously. However, doing so wouldn’t increase the benefits. “Layering oils over serums can block their effectiveness, so following the proper technique for each is best for ensuring new growth,” she adds.
Which formula is best for hair growth?
Both hair serums and oils can aid in improving the health of your scalp. However, when it comes to restoring edges and hair growth, a liquid-based serum is a better choice. Thanks to an assortment of active ingredients, they help stimulate the follicles, promoting growth and overall health.
