We protect our skin from the sun, but what about our hair? Enter the next wave of care to minimize stress on our strands.
How UV Exposure Impacts Our Hair
It may surprise you, but UV damage is the second greatest cause of hair damage after bleaching. So, for the thousands of people who don’t bleach their hair, UV damage is the main culprit—significantly more than heat-styling, too. “UV damage is one of the most overlooked causes of hair aging and structural breakdown,” says Miami dermatologist Dr. Deborah Longwill. Signs of the havoc include frizz, dryness, loss of shine, rough texture, breakage and color fading.
New Haven, CT dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD explains that UV radiation breaks down the proteins, especially keratin, that give hair strength and structure. “It also oxidizes the lipids that keep the cuticle smooth and sealed, and over time, the cuticle lifts and weakens. This causes hair to become more porous and fragile.” Dr. Longwill adds that after repeat sun exposure (not just sunbathing; it can happen just by sitting near a window or taking a walk outside), UV-damaged hair simply doesn’t behave the same. “It becomes harder to style, harder to smooth and less resilient.”
Damage Control
Though UV protection for hair isn’t a new category, it’s on track for big expansion and the science is evolving. “High-quality topical products protect the hair in several important ways,” Dr. Longwill says. “UV filters absorb or deflect ultraviolet radiation; antioxidants can neutralize free radicals generated by UV exposure; film-forming ingredients coat the hair, reducing the penetration of UV, as well as moisture loss; and repairing ingredients can help reinforce weakened areas of the cuticle. Leave-in conditioners, protective sprays, serums and creams are especially helpful because they stay on the hair during exposure.”
Dr. Gohara is a fan of Dove’s new UV Repair & Glow Bi-Phase Serum + Oil ($12). “The oil phase helps smooth and seal the cuticle, reducing moisture loss and friction, while the aqueous phase can deliver UV-absorbing ingredients that limit how much radiation penetrates the hair shaft,” she says. It also claims to repair 99 percent of the hair’s accumulated internal UV damage with repeated use.
With this launch, Dove is also reintroducing the term “Hair Protection Factor” or HPF, which isn’t measured the same way as SPF, but the goal is similar: reduce damage from UV exposure. This formula is HPF 70, meaning it offers 70 hours of sun damage protection for the hair. “Just like we’ve normalized daily SPF for our skin, HPF is about building everyday habits that preserve our hair’s strength, color and shine before damage shows up,” Dr. Gohara says.
Other UV-defenders we love are Rahua Hydration Detangler + UV Barrier ($36), which smells like a tropical vacation, and Nous No Shade Dry Shampoo SPF 30 ($28), which is great for the hairline and part.
