“Floral fragrances often get a bad reputation because they’re sometimes seen as ‘classic’ or ‘old-fashioned,’” explains master perfumer Jérôme Epinette. “For a long time, florals were the backbone of perfumery, often used in heavy, traditional formulations that could come off as dated.” However, these formulas were on-trend for their time, which is why we’ve come to know them as “old lady perfumes.”
“For today’s consumer, this type of note reminds them of fragrances their mother wore, or their favorite aunt wore,” says Virginia Bonofiglio, assistant professor and associate chair of cosmetics and fragrance marketing at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
The powdery note is indicative of the kind of flowers used: rose, violet and iris. Founder and creative director of Who Is Elijah, Raquel Bouris, adds that this effect was enhanced when combined with sandalwood, musks and orris root, creating notes “suggestive of talcum powder or cosmetics.”
Featured Experts
- Jérôme Epinette is a master perfumer
- Virginia Bonofiglio is the assistant professor and associate chair of cosmetics and fragrance marketing at the Fashion Institute of Technology
- Raquel Bouris is the founder and creative director of Who Is Elijah
- Amandine Pallez is the creative director for BVLGARI Parfums
- Romy Kowalewski is the founder and creative director of 27 87
Growing a New Kind of Floral
As florals gained a reputation for their powdery and heavy profile, fragrance trends swung toward a more subtle approach.
“In the 1980s, floral fragrances were bold, opulent and lush,” explains Amandine Pallez, creative director for BVLGARI Parfums. “By the 1990s, they shifted to more transparent and subtle scents, often infused with aquatic notes. Today, florals frequently blend with fruity and berry notes, creating a youthful vibe.”
These days, the focus isn’t just on finding the perfect note pairing, but also on the purity of the extraction itself.
“Perfume artisans now have access to a broader palette of ingredients and advanced extraction techniques, allowing us to capture the purest essence of flowers without their heavier, powdery qualities,” says Romy Kowalewski, founder and creative director of 27 8.
“This change produces flowery fragrances that are more subtle and wearable, appealing to a broader range of consumers,” adds Bouris.
How Does Floral Feel?
“Traditionally, florals were associated with femininity, romance and elegance,” says Kowalewski. “Today, they can express a wide range of emotions and identities, transcending both gender and cultural boundaries.” This pairs well with the modern perfume buyer who is more educated than ever before about the relationship between scent and mood. “These days, consumers search the internet to find experiences that bring joy, pleasure and happiness,” Bonofiglio says.
Epinette adds that modern floral scents are often less about pure femininity and more about versatility and accessibility. “By blending florals with fruity notes, for example, the scent can feel fresher, more vibrant and easier to wear for a wider range of people.”
What’s Next?
“Thanks to advanced and eco-friendly distillation techniques, floral scents are showcasing remarkable modern and creative potential,” says Pallez. This technology allows perfume maisons like BVLGARI to craft exclusive ingredients and harness traditionally difficult notes. “The use of biotechnology has revolutionized fragrance formulation, enabling the extraction of molecules from traditionally ‘mute’ flowers such as lily of the valley, freesia and peony,” Pallez adds.
Alongside picking new flowers, perfumers are also following trending favorites like forest fragrances and gourmands that use florals in unique and captivating combinations. “These contemporary mixes often incorporate florals with unexpected components such as spices, woods or fruits,” says Bouris. “This results in increasingly varied and intricate compositions.” Bonofiglio adds that “there is not a single fragrance family that does not combine on some level with some floral note.”
New Fragrances Revolutionizing Floral
SCENT FAMILY
Fruity Floral
Scent Family
Spiced Floral
Scent Family
Earthy Floral
Scent Family
Floral Leather
Scent Family
Floral Bouquet
SCENT FAMILY
Fresh Floral
