For those with sensitive skin, it can be challenging to find an ingredient to successfully exfoliate without irritation. The solution? Lactic acid for skin. The super-powered ingredient has seen a surge in interest over the past year, and rightly so. It’s a one-stop shop—it brightens dark spots, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, refines pores, smoothes rough skin and helps control acne through exfoliation. With all the TikTok fame and new product launches, there’s been a lot of debate online about which lactic acid serums are worthwhile. We’re here to set the record straight. But first, a lesson on lactic acid for skin.
Featured experts
- Anna Chacon, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in Miami
- Hatice Yildirim is a cosmetic chemist
- Shani Darden is a celebrity aesthetician
What does lactic acid do for skin?
“Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that exfoliates the skin by breaking down dead skin cells and promoting cell turnover. It also helps hydrate the skin by attracting moisture from the environment and improving the skin’s natural moisturizing factors,” explains Miami dermatologist Anna Chacon, MD. Cosmetic chemist Hatice Yildirim notes that lactic acid can also help reduce wrinkles, fade dark spots and protect against oxidative stress.
When should you use lactic acid?
Lactic acid usage recommendations vary based on skin type. “Depending on tolerance, lactic acid can be used from a couple of times a week to up to two times daily,” says Yildirim. It can be used in daytime or nighttime skin-care routines, although celebrity aesthetician Shani Darden recommends using it in the evening after cleansing and before moisturizer.
How should you use lactic acid for skin?
Beginners should start slow and monitor skin for dryness and irritation, says Dr. Chacon. As tolerance builds, the frequency of application can be increased as needed. “It’s essential to follow the instructions on the product and to patch test before use to avoid any negative reactions,” says Dr. Chacon. Yildirim notes that it’s also crucial to use sunscreen as AHAs can make the skin more sensitive to the sun.
Lactic acid should be used alone and not combined with other AHAs or retinoids on the same night, notes Darden. “Using multiple products with chemical exfoliants is not recommended as it can compromise skin barrier function,” says Yildirim. Dr. Chacon urges users to follow the instructions on the product and to patch test before use to avoid any negative reactions.
The ingredient can used in a variety of ways,” says Yildirim. “There are many products on the market with this AHA that can be added to current routines, such as serums, exfoliating wipes, peels and toners. Directions may differ based on application type so make sure to follow the instructions on the products packaging.”
What skin types is lactic acid good for?
“Lactic acid is one of the gentler AHAs. I love it because it works well on virtually all skin types,” says Darden. It’s safe for most skin types since it’s on the milder side and could be a good starting point for those with sensitive skin looking to use a chemical exfoliant, says Yildirim. Although it should be suitable for sensitive skin, Dr. Chacon recommends those with extremely sensitive skin proceed with caution or start with a lower concentration and build up over time.
“Those with acne-prone skin may benefit from using this since it gently removes dead skin cells and helps keep pores clear,” says Yildirim. Dr. Chacon notes it’s also beneficial for dry, dull and aging skin and can help with wrinkles and age spots. Additionally, “since this AHA is a humectant, it can also help dry or dehydrated skin by drawing moisture to the epidermis,” adds Yildirim.
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