If the nightly ritual of washing your face already feels like a chore—and the much-hyped double cleanse strikes you as skin-care overtime—prepare to meet another frontier in facial maintenance: the triple-cleanse.
This routine, which involves three sequential steps to thoroughly strip away sunscreen, makeup, pollutants and excess oil, is earning high praise from experts like New York-based aesthetician Taylor Worden, who describes it not as indulgent excess, but as a necessary ritual for skin in a product-heavy world.
"I personally do a triple-cleanse on all my clients that come in for a facial and I do a triple-cleanse at night whenever I wear makeup," Worden says. "A triple-cleanse should be done if you are doing a peel or some special skin-care treatment and if you are doing a triple-cleanse it should be done at night."
Timing, she adds, is essential—but so is technique. This is precisely how she approaches what she calls a non-negotiable step in any serious skin-care regimen.
The Pre-Cleansing Oil
According to Worden, you're going to want to apply this one directly on dry skin, massage in, add water and massage some more. "The point of a pre-cleansing oil is to apply on dry skin, and this helps to dissolve and break down sunscreen, dirt, oil, waterproof makeup, sebum, impurities, etc. You can then add water to emulsify or not. Then, apply the clay mask on top and massage in."
The Clay Mask
Worden advises to apply this second step on top of the oil, massage in and then wash off. "The point of a clay mask—I like ones made with kaolin and I love Environ’s clay mask—[is that it] works as a light microexfoliant, which helps absorb excess oil and gently exfoliates the skin. After massaging, wash off, and then apply your third cleanser."
The Gel or Creamy Cleanser
On Worden's "must list" for the third step: The cleanser. More specifically, gel for oily or acne-prone skin, and creamy for dry, sensitive skin. "The point of a third cleanser—the gel cleanser—is to de-grease the skin so it is ready for a peel or microneedling, etc. And a creamy cleanser helps to rebalance and hydrate the skin and helps to wash off any residue that was left over. I always finish my triple-cleanse with cotton squares and toner."
And, Worden says, there's a trusted way to know if you are doing the triple-cleanse correctly: "If you were wearing makeup and you do a triple-cleanse, when you use a toner and cotton pad you should not have any makeup or residue on the cotton."
What Do Dermatologists Think?
In line with where Worden sees her clients, Dallas dermatologist Elizabeth Bahar Houshmand, MD agrees triple-cleansing can be beneficial for patients in urban/city populations with normal skin type—not dry or sensitive—exposed to pollution that wear makeup and sunscreen.
"For most others, triple-cleansing can actually be harmful to your skin," she says. "Overwashing, especially with the wrong product, can strip the skin of normal oil and produce dry, dull and even irritated and inflamed skin. Overcleansing can lead to loss of the skin's normal barrier function, which leads to increased water loss and sensitivity or risk of reaction to skin-care products. There are easier ways to get off the day without using three separate products."
As a dermatologist, Dr. Houshmand says she has never triple-cleansed her skin. "Instead, I love micellar water as step one to get rid of all eye makeup and sunscreen. Then, a cleanser for your skin type for the last and final removal. You can also alternate cleansers during the week if you are not wearing as much makeup or have exposure during other days. In general, my philosophy is less is more. You don't need to jump on the latest trend for healthy skin."
Phoenix, AZ dermatologist Dr. Karan Lal is in agreement. "Triple-cleansing is not necessary—it actually may disrupt your skin barrier," he says. "In fact, even single-cleansing may be appropriate if you aren’t wearing makeup. I only recommend double-cleansing for those who wear makeup."
