A good hair day can bolster your confidence or, conversely, leave you feeling less than your best. It’s no surprise interest for professional hair services is rising yet again, according to Spate research: Searches for hair salons are growing by almost 12 percent since last year and there are 4.2 million inquiries for hair services on an average monthly basis.
But the hunt is over. Whether you’re shopping for a dye-coated life change, need some inspiration before your next salon visit or are considering investing in your hair’s health once and for all, here’s what’s trending now in the world of transformative hair treatments.
CUT + COLOR
CASE ONE: A NEW YOU
It may be among the most straightforward ways to transform your hair, but the power of a cut and color should not be discounted. “Your haircut and color is a frame to your personal image,” says R+Co Collective member and colorist Richy Kandasamy. “Transforming your hair can be a whole life-changing moment.” As showcased in Kandasamy’s client’s dramatic transformation, sharp angles and show-stopping cuts are currently trending. (Pinterest searches for mullet hairstyles have increased 190 percent and inquiries for “shaved head dye designs” are up 12x since last year.)
“Before coloring Ashley’s hair, we started with the undercut to help visualize the end result. After assessing her style, personality, complexion and eye level, we were able to choose the perfect color,” says Kandasamy. He then pre-lightened her hair using a powder lightener, then toned with a demi-permanent haze blonde color.
CASE TWO: A NATURAL APPROACH
Pantone’s color of the year may be lilac-hued Veri Peri, but when it comes to hair, 2022 is all about brunette tones, natural-looking dimension and ‘70s blondes. Celebrity colorist Chad Kenyon is known for his lived-in color jobs, and says even subtle changes make a huge impact to those in his chair. “I’ve had clients cry tears of joy by seeing how hair color has changed the way they see themselves,” he says. Kenyon explains he paints hair in such a way that he is able to carefully “enhance and diffuse” facial features.
Kenyon enhanced this client’s auburn hair by adding dimension and faceframing highlights with a natural, lived-in blonde color.
CASE THREE: NEW LENGTHS
Not ready for a color change or dramatic cut? Adding length and volume to your hair with professional- grade extensions can be just as transformative. “Our stylists address our clients’ hair challenges and identify ways that our extensions can be a tool used to help fix the challenge,” says Jennifer Martin, director of marketing for Great Lengths.
“I have worn Great Lengths bonded extensions for over 15 years and it’s given me the confidence I needed to walk through the world as a business woman without worrying about my hair,” says this client styled by Marie Green of Hair Extensions by Marie. “It’s as easy as getting cosmetic filler and it takes my fine, limp hair to a level of confident, powerful and celebrity- worthy locks in one application.”
Green applied 18-inch premium keratin-bonded strands from Great Lengths in a variety of colors for a seamless blend.
CASE ONE: BACK TO LIFE
Because many keratin treatments contain formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasing chemicals—be sure to ask your stylist for the specifics on your formula if you’re a keratin- user—long-term use of the in-salon treatment can wreak havoc on your strands and leave you with dry, brittle and severely damaged hair over time.
Lorraine Massey of Spiral XYZ salon has made nursing clients’ hair back to health her mission. “My goal is to help clients who have had their hair damaged after years of chemical treatments,” she says. Her focus while bringing curl patterns back to life: education, patience and hydration. “Once you care for the hair you have and start seeing the health and growth evidence, there is no going back.”
CASE TWO: STRONG BONDS
Scheduled touch-ups and bleach jobs can do a number on once strong, resilient strands.
Olaplex’s latest in-salon innovation, the 4-in-1 Moisture Mask, penetrates the hair shaft to repair damaged, broken bonds after a chemical service. The highly concentrated mask includes elevated levels of ceramides, oils and amino acids to add shine, tame unruly strands and deliver intense moisture to dry hair in need of TLC.
CASE ONE: ROLL CALL
The collagen-rejuvenating power of microneedling with platelet-rich plasma can deliver transformative results when used on the scalp. So much so, Wayne, NJ facial plastic surgeon Jeffrey B. Wise, MD likens the treatment to “fertilizer for hair.” “Microneedling with PRP stimulates the stem cells in the hair root, awakening the scalp and pushing any dormant follicles into ‘growth mode,’” explains Dr. Wise. “We are waking up the hair and giving it the nourishment it needs to start thriving again.” PRP is an excellent preventative option for those noticing hair thinning, or anyone with a family history of hair loss over time. However, Dr. Wise notes PRP cannot grow hair in areas where follicles no longer exist, “so someone experiencing advanced balding will more likely be a candidate for a hair transplant.”
Glenn Dale, MD dermatologist Valerie Callender, MD says in-office hair-loss treatments like microneedling with PRP are often used in combination with nutraceuticals such as Nutrafol or Viviscal to usher in optimal results.
To jump-start growth, it’s best to target follicles during each of the three hair growth and shedding phases. “This requires three sessions of PRP therapy, spaced four to six weeks apart,” says Dr. Wise. “In the best case scenario, patients would also keep up with maintenance sessions every six months to ensure hair stays healthy.”
This 61 year old female complained of hair thinning on her scalp for several years. Along with taking Viviscal Professional Hair Vitamins, Dr. Callender performed three sessions of PRP injections spaced four weeks apart.
CASE TWO: LIGHT SHOW
The Fotona laser is an ablative skin-resurfacing laser commonly used to achieve a brighter, smoother complexion. It can also be used for skin-tightening and off-the-face plumping. Used off label, New York dermatologist Doris Day, MD has found huge success in the laser beam’s ability to significantly revive hair follicles on the scalp.
Dr. Day says the laser works through a mechanism of photobiomodulation, “where heat and energy are used to stimulate and revive stem cells of the follicle, as well as to stabilize the follicle itself.” The Fotona laser can be used to treat many different forms of hair loss—Dr. Day notes she has seen success in both autoimmune and genetic cases—and 12 treatment sessions spaced two weeks apart, are generally recommended, followed by maintenance treatments at three months.
Dr. Day performed multiple treatments of Fotona Hairlase in order to address this 54 year old female’s hair-loss concerns.
CASE THREE: SURGICAL SOLUTION
The only permanent solution to hair loss, hair restoration surgery (also known as a hair transplant) involves taking a viable hair graft or follicle from one part of the body and placing it in a different part, most commonly the scalp, says Delray Beach, FL facial plastic surgeon Miguel Mascaró, MD.
There are two methods of extracting the grafts: FUT, or strip technique, and FUE, or follicular unit extraction technique, where the grafts are removed one by one. Dr. Wise says most patients prefer the FUE technique as it’s the least invasive and doesn’t leave a linear scar. “The best part is the natural-looking result: The transplanted hair will continue growing as if it has always been there,” he says.
Candidacy relies on the location and nature of hair loss, but the best candidates for the surgery are those that have a good donor area, and have realistic expectations based on their goals and desires, says Dr. Mascaró.
This 29-year-old patient opted for a FUE hair transplant with Dr. Wise. 2,500 grafts were transplanted to the top and sides of her scalp. Results shown at the six-month post-op mark.