Remember when K-beauty products hit the U.S. market back some 10-plus years ago? Things like BB creams and cushion compacts were new to us, but not to the millions of Korean skin-care obsessives and their 12-step routines. Since then, the trends coming out of Seoul and other Asian markets haven’t been limited to innovative textures and formats. New ingredients have also landed stateside, and one you’ll be seeing more of is propolis. Though newer in skin care in the U.S., it’s no stranger in the wellness space, where it’s used in immune-boosting supplements. “Propolis has long been a beloved ingredient in Korean skin care, but in other markets, it’s more commonly known as an edible substance that boosts the immune system,” says Michelle Kim, digital marketing manager at K-beauty brand CNP Laboratory.
Thanks to the advanced processing techniques used by K-beauty companies, Kim says propolis is now a powerful skin-care ingredient. “We believe it has the potential to become even more popular in the coming years,” she adds. Here, experts share their insight on all things propolis, and the best products to find it in.
What is propolis?
Not to be confused with honey, propolis is an amber-colored, resin-like substance created by bees from tree sap and plant materials. “Bees use it to seal and protect their hives from bacteria and viruses,” says the team at COSRX, a K-beauty brand. It’s known for its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and it’s produced in many different countries. “It is also known as the bee glue,” adds cosmetic chemist Ginger King. “While you get honey from the nectar, you get propolis from tree saps and resins.”
According to New Zealand brand Mānuka Health, which uses propolis in its skin-care and wellness products, propolis has been revered for its extraordinary properties throughout history. “Ancient Greeks harnessed the healing potential of propolis to treat a range of ailments, including sores and coughs, showcasing its diverse medicinal applications. The enduring appreciation of propolis across ancient civilizations highlights its longstanding reputation as a potent natural remedy.”
What benefits does it provide in skin care?
In skin care, propolis is an incredible multitasking ingredient with a long list of benefits. “In Korean beauty, people love it because it’s lightweight and can be layered, which is suitable for multistep beauty regimens,” says King. “Thus, you often see it in ampoules, essences and masks.”
COSRX says propolis is valued for its natural healing and protective qualities. “It’s a highly sought-after ingredient to soothe and nourish the skin,” adds Kim. “It is also highly effective for strengthening and repairing the skin. Incorporating it into skin-care routines aligns with the growing wellness trend. It offers a natural and gentle way to maintain skin health, especially by helping the skin build resilience against environmental stress.”
Propolis is also utilized in products for sensitive and acne-prone skin types because it’s antibacterial and anti-inflammatory. “It helps reduce inflammation, and its natural antibacterial properties help prevent breakouts and support a clear complexion,” Kim explains. As an antioxidant, propolis fights against damaging free radicals. “This reduces the effects of aging and improves skin resilience,” she adds. “Propolis is also a natural humectant, so it helps the skin retain moisture and stay hydrated. And, it supports the skin’s natural repair processes. It helps to soothe irritation, redness and minor wounds.”
How is propolis sourced?
Propolis is a bee byproduct, so one drawback is that it’s not vegan. However, COSRX, CNP Laboratory and many other brands utilizing the ingredient make sure to source it responsibly. (The same goes for honey and its use in skin care.) COSRX says its propolis is sourced with careful attention to bee welfare. “We work with suppliers who ensure that bees are treated responsibly and unharmed during the extraction process. We support sustainability and ethical practices.” Kim says CNP collects the ingredient from bee hives by beekeepers during regular hive maintenance in a way that doesn’t harm the bees. “Ethical beekeepers ensure that the bees are provided with safe, healthy environments. This allows them to thrive while only the propolis that is needed is collected.”
Kim shares a story with me about her visit to one of CNP’s bee-farming partners on Jeju Island. “It was inspiring to see the bees working so hard, with the farm owners showing great respect for them,” she tells me. “The bees were very gentle, proving how they coexisted with the beekeepers. The beekeepers shared that bees and their keepers have a mutual relationship, both working diligently. If the hives aren’t regularly maintained, the bees either stop working or relocate. By periodically cleaning the hives and leaving a proper amount of honey and propolis, the beekeepers ensure that the bees have space to continue their work. Propolis is a rare material, collected only once a year in small quantities. Once harvested, it is sent to the CNP lab, where it undergoes a meticulous purification process for use in our skin-care products.”
Does this ingredient work for all skin types?
Propolis generally works well for most skin types. “This includes sensitive and acne-prone skin, due to propolis’s calming and antimicrobial properties,” says Kim. “However, people who are allergic to bee products, such as honey or bee venom, should avoid propolis, as it may cause allergic reactions.” Additionally, it’s best practice if you’re new to propolis (or any skin-care ingredient) to patch-test products first before applying.
Propolis Products to Try
