It’s a term I hadn’t heard before, but it makes perfect sense: “fluctuating skin.” I learned all about it during a presentation by the UK’s top skin-care brand No7 at the American Academy of Dermatology’s annual conference in Orlando last month, and it was incredibly compelling. So what it is exactly? Fluctuating skin is skin that teeters between healthy and diseased (eczema, acne, etc.). If you’re thinking, “hey, that’s my skin type,” you’re not alone. No7 partnered with the British Skin Foundation to survey 20,000 people, and discovered the majority fit into this group. “I see it all the time in my patients, too, and my colleagues do as well,” says Perrysburg, OH dermatologist Hope Mitchell, MD. Here are the findings, and what to know about No7’s new Derm Solutions line that can help keep this skin type (and many others) healthy and happy.
Featured Experts
- Dr. Mike Bell is the head of science research for No7
- Hope Mitchell, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in Perrysburg, Ohio
- Robert Finney, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City
- Tess Mauricio, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in San Diego, CA
What is “fluctuating skin”?
Healthy skin is radiant, hydrated and even in appearance. If it does experience an acute fluctuation, it resolves quickly. Diseased skin, according to how it’s clinically defined, is skin that is unbalanced and experiences chronic conditions—the most common being eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and acne. “Fluctuating skin” is skin that sits somewhere in the middle between these two ends of the spectrum. “This skin type is inconsistent and in an unhealthy cycle of inflammation, barrier damage and oxidative stress, which can lead to oiliness and blemishes, dryness, dullness, redness, uneven skin tone and rough texture,” says Dr. Mike Bell, head of science research for No7.
“In phase one of our testing, we found that 41 percent of people had fluctuating skin, and it’s more prevalent in people younger than 45,” says Dr. Mitchell. “We also found that they experienced seven concerns at some point over the past three months, and the top triggers for those concerns were lack of sleep, stress and changes in weather. Stress was the leading cause of fluctuations, which didn’t surprise us.” Dr. Mauricio isn’t surprised about sleep being in the top three either. “The secret to beautiful skin is sleep,” she says. “Sleep deprivation can be very damaging and can accelerate aging, and even acne. A No7 study proved that 64 percent of rhythmic genes have expression between 10 p.m. and 7 a.m., so we need to support our skin with a good nighttime regimen.”
According to Dr. Mitchell, many of her patients say, ‘you should have seen my skin yesterday’ because on the day of their appointment, their skin had fluctuated to a healthier state. “They often have oiliness or tightness that comes and goes,” she adds. “But, I also have patients who miss work and social engagements because they don’t feel comfortable in their own skin. That’s a driver for many people coming into the office wanting solutions.”
How Men and Women Respond Differently
No7’s research showed that women with fluctuating skin reported more concerns related to physical appearance. “Men, on the other hand, reported more concerns related to sensations like burning, tightness and itching,” says Dr. Mitchell. “Women care about the look of it and go to their dermatologist when they’re uncomfortable with how they look. Men tend to come in when they are physically uncomfortable.”
How to Care for Fluctuating Skin
“The older we get, the worse our skin barrier becomes, and it needs a little TLC,” says Dr. Finney. “If you are someone with fluctuating skin, the goal is to achieve epidermal homeostasis. Look for cleansers that don’t damage your barrier and ingredients like ceramides that really nourish. You want to fill your routine with a few good products that work time in and time out, and won’t break you out.”
Dr. Finney also explains that patients with fluctuating skin are often confused and don’t really know their skin type. “They throw a bunch of different products at it to see what works, and that can be costly and take time. No7’s Derm Solutions line keeps it simple, and I find that my patients are more consistent with their routine when they use it.” These products work to make skin more resilient so that it can adapt to its environment appropriately without getting thrown off-kilter.
The Products to Try If You Have This Skin Type
There are currently four products in the Derm Solutions collection (more to come), including two cleansers and two moisturizers formulated with adaptogens (ginseng, red clover and custard apple), ceramides and niacinamide. “Adaptogens help target signs of stressed skin, such as dryness, the appearance of redness and the feeling of sensitivity,” says Dr. Mitchell. Dr. Bell adds that “Derm Solutions is designed to work with your skin to target these visible signs, helping it adapt and defend against both internal and external triggers.”
Choose one of the two cleansers and moisturizers based on whether your skin tends to be dry and sensitive, or oily and blemish-prone. All four products work to support the skin barrier, which is what fluctuating skin types need most, and are suitable for sensitive skin. They were also tested on acne-prone and eczema-prone skin.
In an eight-week trial, 93 percent of participants using the dry and sensitive skin regimen (the Hydrating Cream Cleanser and 100hr Hydration Cream) said their sensitivity felt reduced, and 91 percent said they had more “good skin days.” On the other hand, 93 percent of those testing the oily- and acne-prone regimen (the Daily Detox Gel Cleanser and Daily Lightweight Moisturizer) said their skin looked healthier, 91 percent experienced reduced dryness associated with acne, and 88 percent had more “good skin days.”
“One of our main goals in developing this line was to increase the number of ‘good skin days’ for our consumers, and the results of our testing show that we’ve accomplished that,” says Dr. Bell. “These products allow people to feel more in control of their skin, which is so important. We’ve also seen clinically measurable improvements in the skin conditions we’re targeting.”
