From “cowboy copper” to “old money blonde” and “teddy bear brunette,” trendy hair-color transformations have taken over our social feeds. Here, we spotlight the science behind saturating strands, how to maintain vibrant color, and the top trends and products to know about this year.
Featured Experts
- Sarah Ashley is a New York–based extensionist and ambassador for Remi Cachet
- Shab Caspara is a trichologist
- Cassadi Currier is an IBE hairstylist and educator
Science Lesson: Saturating Strands
From TikTok to the red carpet, new hair color trends are materializing on the daily, inspiring celebrities, fans and followers alike to experiment with new shades more often than ever before. Gone are the days when changing your hair color was a monumental, once-in-a-blue-moon endeavor. As eager as we now are to sport a new shade, do we really know how dyeing our strands works beyond the surface?
“The chemical ammonia is in hair dye, which is mixed with a hair developer to allow the hair to fully absorb the color,” says Sarah Ashley, a New York–based extensionist and ambassador for Remi Cachet. “These chemicals open the cuticles of the hair, allowing the color to penetrate and the shade to change.” Not all hair color changes are equal, though. The science behind going from dark to light and light to dark varies greatly.
Light + Dark: Tackling the Color Transition
“Dyeing hair with a darker hair color is more of a deposit of color, while bleaching or dyeing the hair lighter is a breakdown of existing melanin,” explains trichologist Shab Caspara. “With the help of hydrogen peroxide raising the hair’s pH, hair color molecules not only coat the hair strand, but also penetrate the cuticle and get trapped inside the cortex layer. Existing melanin is broken down by ammonia or some derivative and canceled out using complementary colors that get deposited back in.” Toners that tackle brassiness and unwanted hues after bleaching your hair are good examples of how complementary color deposits help cancel out the effects of bleach-like ingredients.
As to be expected, some hair color transitions are harder than others and impact the overall health of the hair differently, which is important to consider when picking a new hue. “Any form of lightening will compromise hair quality and can dry out the scalp,” Caspara says. “Lightening the hair weakens it by damaging its bonds and also increases pH levels. Repeated hair lightening can weaken the hair cuticle, making it unable to seal back down. This results in breakage and tangles.”
Not only is going dark to light tough on the hair, but it can also be more time-consuming to achieve results. “For darker hair, the process of opening the hair cuticle and absorbing dye might take a few rounds to fully develop the desired color,” Ashley adds.
Hue Horoscope: Examining + Predicting Hair Color Trends
Beyond the science of how color changes work, knowing what’s trending is just as important in choosing your next shade change. “The hair color transformations we saw last year showed lots of natural hue adjustments: blondes going for a warm honey shade and brunettes going for rich espresso. We also saw lots of changes from blonde to brunette, and brunette to red or copper,” Ashley says. “I think it’s great that people are playing with color because it’s a fun way to change up your look. I’ve also seen huge growth in people coloring their hair through the use of hair extensions rather than chemicals.” Adding colored extensions is a great way to prioritize hair health during a color swap. It’s also a trend that IBE hairstylist and educator Cassadi Currier predicts will continue to rise in 2025.
“I predict hair color is going to continue to follow the trajectory of maintaining a lived-in look while incorporating nuanced tones that suit your specific natural undertones,” Currier says.
Color by Chad Kenyon on Janett Ok; Cut and Styling by Yuki Nakatani; Images Courtesy of Chad Kenyon
“I think we will see very thick, bold money pieces turning into a softer ribbon of brightness draping the face that gradually increases in size and brightness as you go further down the hair, too.” Ashley thinks we’ll continue seeing a lot of the golden blonde, rich brown and the bold red hues that became a staple last year.”
Stay Gold: How to Maintain Vibrancy and Hair Health
Picking a new hair color is one thing, but maintaining your new shade after you’ve achieved it is a whole different ball game. Thankfully, there are now tons of efficacious products and treatments to help keep hair bright and healthy, regardless of the color.“
“The most important thing to consider when transitioning between two hair colors is the health of your hair,” says Ashley.
“If you experience dry, damaged or brittle hair after coloring it, consider holding off and finding a routine that boosts your natural oils to restore overall health. If you’re determined to make a change, consider hair extensions. This helps not only those who have weakened hair, but also those who struggle with the process of coloring.”
Currier agrees, explaining that a blend of nourishing products and extensions can help maintain your hair health and increase time between touch-ups.” When you’re undergoing a major change, you will generally be using stronger chemicals in your hair like color removers, bleaches and more, so your hair will require a bit more love,” Currier says. “I recommend Goldie Locks products to all of my clients because they are nourishing to both natural hair and hair extensions.”
Core Four: Must-Have Products for Color-Treated Hair
