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Hair Thickeners: Navigating What Really Works

Hair Thickeners: Navigating What Really Works featured image
This article first appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of New Beauty. Click here to subscribe

Not sure which thickening hair products live up to their claims? Let this be your guide to the latest buzzworthy launches backed by science.

If you want to take your thickening efforts to the next level, see an expert. “A variety of therapies are available for improving overall hair health and volume,” says Miami hair restoration specialist Jeffrey Epstein, MD. From over-the-counter supplements to laser light therapy, a specialist can help identify the best option for your needs.

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NatureLab.Tokyo SAISEI Biomimetic Peptide Treatment Essence ($46)

What Makes it Different

This essence is designed to address the visible signs of aging we see in our hair, like graying and thinning, says Atsushi Takeoka, research and development formulator for NatureLab Co. Ltd. It’s clinically proven to boost hair thickness and reduce graying and fallout for an overall younger-looking head of hair. “Powerful botanical extracts paired with our advanced formulation technology are able to invigorate the scalp and promote cell renewal,” says Takeoka.

The Science

The biomimetic peptides in this essence “mimic those that are naturally occurring in our bodies and can interact with growth factor receptors,” says Takeoka. “These peptides work to revitalize hair follicles and stimulate melanin production, supporting thicker and fuller strands while helping to restore natural hair color.”

nature lab essence treatment
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TYPEBEA G1 Overnight Boosting Peptide ($52)

What Makes it Different

TYPEBEA is a new line cofounded by singer Rita Ora and Anna Lahey, the mind behind Vida Glow. The G1 scalp serum is the hero product among a range designed to boost hair thickness, length and strength. “It’s a standout because it’s water-based, so people can use it daily without making their hair greasy,” explains Lahey, noting that it was important for Ora to find a formula that worked with hair extensions without damaging their bonds.

The Science

“All of our formulation research led us to Baicapil,” says Lahey. “It’s a patented ingredient complex that is clinically studied to stimulate hair growth, increase hair density and reduce hair loss by 60 percent. In clinical studies, the ingredient was shown to increase the number of new hairs on average by 12,500 to 38,000.”

typebea g1
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Virtue Flourish Thickening Styling Treatment ($46)

What Makes it Different

This two-in-one magic act performs as both a styler and treatment. The “unique powdery, soufflé-like cream is packed with densifying, continuous-action ingredients that deliver all-day, long-lasting volume, body and bounce,” says Debby Vellozzi, head of product development for Virtue Labs. “Not only does it provide thicker-looking hair immediately, but it also holds that volume all day.”

The Science

“In product development, a formula is sometimes inspired by a texture. Other times, technology serves as the inspiration. But in this case, we were inspired by both,” says Vellozzi. The innovative texture features special starches that plump each strand. Virtue also mixed in some growth-promoting ingredients “to treat thinning hair while also providing that instant gratification of thicker-feeling hair.”

virtue flourish treatment
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Dove Men+Care Thick & Full 2-in-1 Shampoo + Conditioner ($9)

What Makes it Different

This shower staple “plays in two emerging spaces within the broader men’s market: sulfate-free formulations and the use of naturally derived ingredients,” says Cassidy Lucas, scientist and process engineer at Unilever. It was formulated with plant-based cleansers and moisturizers for stronger and healthier-feeling hair.

The Science

“Compared to regular shampoo, sulfate-free formulas provide a gentle but effective clean without leaving the hair feeling dry,” says Lucas. Featuring vitamin B3 and a mineral complex, this double-duty product is well-suited to promote visibly thicker, stronger hair.

dove thick and full shampoo and conditioner
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Anatomy Hair-Bond Reconstruction Leave-In Formula ($55)

What Makes it Different

“This leave-in conditioner is truly next-generation, focusing not just on cosmetic improvement of the hair, but also deep, molecular repair and protection,” says brand founder Nawaf Arhamah. “Unlike traditional thickeners that coat the hair for temporary volume, this formula uses advanced molecules to thicken the hair by actually increasing the density of hair fibers from within, nurturing the hair’s natural structure and enhancing its integrity and resilience over time.”

The Science

“It works through a molecular chemistry process known as thiol recombination,” explains Arhamah. “Through this process, a new double bond between two free thiols is created in place of the broken disulfide bond.” The result? “The new bond is stronger than the original, which enhances the hair’s strength, thickness and resilience to damage.”

anatomy hair leave in
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BosleyMD Revive+ Densifying Foam ($44)

What Makes it Different

Raleigh, NC hair restoration surgeon and Bosley partner Dr. Angie Phipps calls this foam “one of the biggest innovations in the hair-loss category in the past 25 years because it targets hair thinning at the genetic level.” She also notes that the product is 100-percent drug-free and clinically proven.

The Science

“This product works by supporting healthy mitochondria, the energy powerhouse of follicle cells,” says Dr. Phipps. “BosleyMD worked with a biotech lab that used artificial intelligence to discover Proprietary Y100, the exact molecule needed to support mitochondrial function and target the root cause of hair loss.” Proprietary Y100 works by reenergizing hair follicles to extend the hair growth cycle, promoting thicker, fuller-looking hair.

bosley md revive

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