I’ve been practicing dermatology long enough to remember a time when “serum” was more of a marketing word than a meaningful one.
Now, in my 50s, I find myself saying something I never thought I would: I’m genuinely excited about what I’m seeing on shelves this spring.
Spring has sprung, and with it comes that familiar sense of renewal—not just in the air, but in my exam rooms and, increasingly, in my own routine. What strikes me most this year is the science. For the first time in a long time, the formulations I’m trying (and recommending) feel like they’ve caught up to the promises.
Take YSE Beauty Xtreme Glow Peptide Plumping Serum ($68). It’s the first product in years that made me pause and reconsider my long-standing skepticism. For the first time, I can say “serum” without hesitation. For decades, I spent hours each day explaining to patients that many serums lacked true active ingredients. They were elegant, yes, but often superficial. This one is different. We now have a serum with active ingredients that help hydrate aging skin and give it the glow it needs! It’s effective, thoughtfully formulated and refreshingly priced in a way that doesn’t feel exclusionary.
That same philosophy carries into the YSE Wide Awake Brightening Eye Cream ($68). As someone who has gradually moved away from daily makeup, I look for products that do more than conceal. In my late 40s, my goal was to move away from everyday makeup, and this has helped me get there. The range of shades, the hydration and the inclusion of real actives make it versatile. I even find myself blending two shades—something my younger self would have considered unnecessary effort, but now feels like a small, satisfying ritual. And, as I often tell patients, what works for the eyes often works for upper lip lines. That rule hasn’t failed me yet.
Then there’s the science-forward innovation from Obagi with its Nu-Gen Cellular Renewal Serum ($175). The name is a mouthful, but the ingredient—NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide)—is what caught my attention. It’s not just trendy; it’s biologically relevant. Again, a serum that makes sense. There’s a deeper satisfaction in using a product when you understand the mechanism behind it. I actually handed this one off to my husband, partly in jest, because it boasts “it turns back six years.” Around our house, there’s a running joke that he’s aging backward. We may have just given away one of his secrets.
Of course, not everything new needs to be complicated. I’m equally impressed by how brands like EltaMD are refining essentials. Its daily moisturizers with sunscreen are targeted in a way that reflects how we actually practice dermatology—addressing rosacea, acne and aging as distinct conditions requiring specific actives. It can feel overwhelming to patients, and I often guide them through the options, but the intention behind these formulations is exactly where modern skin care should be heading.
When patients ask me about ingredients “having a moment,” I smile, because trends come and go, but biology doesn’t. Peptides and NAD+ may be getting attention right now, but sunscreen, antioxidants, tretinoin and retinol remain essential. The fundamentals still matter. They always will.
And then there’s the reality of mature skin—something I now speak about not just clinically, but personally. “Menopause is brutal,” I tell my patients, with a candor I might not have had 20 years ago. But I also remind them how far we’ve come. My approach has broadened over time. Hormonal balance, sleep support—magnesium glycinate for sleep is a must—and consistent hydration all play a role. I’ve even developed small daily preferences, like reaching for electrolyte drinks or a clean energy boost, that support the bigger picture.
Still, skin care remains at the center. One product I can’t stop recommending is the YSE Take It Off Gel-Oil Cleanser ($48). The hydration it’s added to my skin has been significant. At this stage in life, cleansing is no longer about stripping—it’s about preserving and replenishing. Similarly, Obagi’s Elastiderm Neck and Décolleté Concentrate ($260) has earned a permanent place in my routine. The rollerball application feels almost indulgent, but the results speak for themselves.
And perhaps that’s what I’ve come to appreciate most in this phase of my career and life: balance. I am, by every measure, a science-driven physician. But I’ve also learned that joy matters. I’ll even go out on a limb as a double board–certified MD and say that every once in a while, I’ll enjoy a Woodford Reserve bourbon margarita with friends—because feeling good shows up on your skin, too.
