Nowadays, we as beauty consumers are more interested than ever in what’s inside the products we use daily. From the rise of clean, vegan products to the more active avoidance of microplastics, the desire for transparency in self-care products is more prevalent than ever. So, you can imagine my surprise when I learned at a dinner last month with oral health brand Made by Dentists that certain ingredients in toothpaste and other oral health products are non-regulated. Meaning, it’s easy to form unreliable claims about products that use non-regulated ingredients. In pursuit of the truth, I consulted the experts at Made by Dentists and a cosmetic chemist to discuss all things regulated versus non-regulated ingredients in beauty.
Featured Experts
- Dr. Lisa Creaven is an Ireland-based dentist and co-founder of Made By Dentists
- John Bartlone is the chief science officer in charge of product development at Skintensive
What beauty ingredients are regulated in the U.S.? Which are not?
Regulated Ingredients in Oral Care
I first became aware of the lack of self-care and beauty ingredient regulations during a conversation with Dr. Creaven. She informed me that fluoride-based oral health products require regulation while fluoride-free products don’t. Meaning, that inaccurate or over-promising claims can easily be made about oral health products that don’t contain fluoride. So, what other ingredients should you look for to ensure your toothpaste is safe and effective? Dr. Creaven explains, “Fluoride toothpastes are regulated under the FDA, which controls the statements and claims that we can say about these ingredients. Potassium nitrate is another ingredient that is regulated, which means that we can only claim things that have been proven by a scientific body of research.”
On the other hand, “Fluoride-free toothpastes are not regulated by the FDA,” Dr. Creaven notes. “Terms such as ‘clean’ and ‘natural’ don’t technically mean anything and have never been legally defined, which can mislead consumers. For example, many natural toothpastes use the phrase ‘clean,’ which might not contain fluoride but it can still be full of sulfates, DEA, gluten and animal by-products. Using products that rely on globally recognized standards such as the ADA and PETA are much more helpful to guide consumers. I have seen lots of patients switch to a natural toothpaste thinking that they are doing a good thing and for many people this results in a dramatic increase in cavities and gum disease. To note, the American Dental Association will only approve a toothpaste that contains fluoride.”
Regulated and Non-Regulated Ingredients in Beauty
As you might know, the U.S. has very different rules than many other countries regarding regulated versus non-regulated ingredients in beauty. As Bartlone explains, “Cosmetic products and ingredients in the United States are not subject to FDA pre-market approval authority, with the exception of color additives. Cosmetic firms are responsible for substantiating the safety of their products and ingredients before marketing.”
That doesn’t mean there are no regulated ingredients in the personal-care world, though. “With that said, regulated ingredients include OTC ingredients which are classified as drugs by the FDA like sunscreens, antiperspirants, skin protectants, anti-dandruff ingredients for shampoo and anti-acne topicals,” Bartlone explains. “Other regulated categories include medical devices such as those intended for hair removal or laser resurfacing. The purpose of these regulations is to provide clear guidance on their proper use, levels, directions, claims and labeling to ensure safety to the public under customary conditions of use.”
Many popular beauty ingredients don’t require regulation or FDA approval. It’s important for consumers to understand whether or not their preferred products include these ingredients, Bartlone says. “There exists a list of cosmetic ingredients not regulated by the FDA which include alpha-hydroxy acids and preservatives that should be carefully considered when used in a formula depending on their intended use. Guidelines for their proper use can be found on the FDA website. Some common unregulated ingredients include glycerin, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin E, vitamin C, essential oils, ceramides, emulsifiers and thickeners.”