Dark spots can be a sore spot in your skin-care goals. Whether caused by excess sun exposure, post-acne scarring or hyperpigmentation, they’re a hurdle on the road to glowing skin. Removing the darkened areas can be a huge obstacle, as the issue is quite literally skin deep. Adding a dark spot serum to your routine can help. But where do you begin with so many options available? Fortunately, there’s a simple solution: Follow the ingredients. Knowing the range of actives available to target dark areas is essential to finding a product suitable to your skin’s needs. Below, we chatted with two dermatologists on the topic, including how dark spot serums work and the ingredients to look out for when shopping.
Featured experts
- Dr. Robyn Gmyrek is a board-certified dermatologist in New York
- Nathan Newman is a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon in Beverly Hills
How do dark spot serums work?
Dark spot serums are designed to target areas of hyperpigmentation on the skin. Regardless of the cause, be it sun damage, hormonal changes, inflammation or post-acne marks, the serums aim to lighten the discoloration at the source. However, not all serums work the same. According Beverly Hills dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon Nathan Newman, MD, there are two main formulations, each working in different ways. “Spot treatment formulas are concentrated and often contain higher percentages of active ingredients to break down melanin clusters and fade discoloration,” he says. On the contrary, all-over formulas use a gentler approach and are made for full-face application. Dr. Newman remarks that although these products are billed as dark spot correctors, they are made to even out skin tone and prevent future pigmentation.
So, what exactly causes the dark spots to fade? As New York dermatologist Dr. Robyn Gmyrek explains, most formulas include active ingredients to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme essential for pigment formation. “Blocking tyrosinase prevents melanocytes from producing melanin to decrease unwanted pigmentation,” she adds.
What ingreidents should you look for?
There are several key acids for targeting discoloration—such as tranexamic, kojic, and azelaic—and various other ingredients that can block tyrosinase. “Deciding on which will be best for your skin comes down to the cause or type of pigmentation,” says Dr. Gmyrek. According to experts, the most common types are Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH), melasma, and solar lentigines, aka sun spots. “PIH occurs more commonly in olive skin tones after acne or skin trauma,” says Dr. Newman. If you have PIH, he notes that skin-calming formulas with exfoliating and barrier-repairing ingredients work best for discoloration in the skin. He adds that azelaic acid is a great option, especially if your dark spots are caused by acne.
Melasma is hormonally driven and can be more stubborn to remove despite being easy to diagnose. “It usually appears as brown patches on the cheeks, upper lip and forehead and is often exacerbated by sun exposure,” says Dr. Gmyrek. Treating melasma typically involves consistently using potent but gentle ingredients such as tranexamic acid, azelaic acid and cysteamine. Sun spots can also be tricky as it’s hard to tell how deep the pigmentation is. Still, a topical solution containing common skin-care actives can be effective for fading discoloration. “Sun-induced spots respond well to antioxidants, retinoids and melanin inhibitors like alpha arbutin, but consistency is key,” says Dr. Newman.
How to use dark spot serums
You’re not going to see immediate results with any serum. Given the nature of dark spots, the treatment must be consistent to lighten the areas, especially if the pigmentation is deep. “Some topical products may not be able to penetrate to the deeper levels of the skin, meaning the serum will lighten the area, but it may not completely remove all of the pigmentation,” says Dr. Gmyrek. That said, it’s best to incorporate the serum into your morning and evening routine after cleansing and before your moisturizer is applied. Dr. Newman explains that spot treatments can be applied directly to the affected area while all-over serums should be applied in a thin layer over the entire face.
While it can be tempting to slather on one active after another, the experts recommend taking caution and opting for a combination product instead. Dr. Gmyrek suggests looking for serums that include multiple active ingredients stabilized in the formulation and when they are applied to your skin. No skin-care routine is complete without SPF and that goes tenfold for hyperpigmentation. “Always apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen daily to protect against further darkening of pigment in discolored areas,” says Dr. Newman.
Dark spot serums to try
