Hair health has never been a bigger topic in beauty than it is today. The industry has tackled the importance of scalp care, damage repair and heat protection with the goal of healthier strands in mind. However, hair health, like the rest of our body, depends on water, which is why hair porosity has become a particularly buzzy discussion. Determining how porous your strands are isn’t just trendy— it actually plays a big role in the texture, look and feel of your hair. You’ve probably seen clips on low-porosity hair types come across your For You Page. While this type historically results in drier hair, it isn’t necessarily a bad thing to have low porosity. Instead of falling down a rabbit hole, it’s best to understand the basics of hair porosity and use the knowledge to create a healthy hair routine. Ahead, we chatted with three experts to learn more about the difference between high and low-porosity hair and the best ways to maintain each type.
Featured Experts
- Kylee Heath is a celebrity hairstylist
- Bea Carmichael is the global educator of hairstyling at Aveda
- Kerry E Yates is a trichologist and founder Colour Collective
What is hair porosity?
“Hair porosity boils down to water retention and is basically how well your hair soaks up and holds onto moisture,” says celebrity hairstylist Kylee Heath. As you can imagine, this is a big deal when it comes to hydrating your hair and moisture absorption. Water retention is essential for maintaining optimum health. Without the proper amount of moisture, your hair can become dry and brittle, making it more susceptible to breakage and split ends. According to global educator of hairstyling at Aveda Bea Carmichael, high-porosity hair easily absorbs moisture, while low-porosity hair has a harder time with the job. That said, it can be helpful to understand where on the spectrum your hair falls.
High porosity vs. low porosity
Understanding the difference between the two is key to helping you build an effective hair-care routine. “High porosity hair typically has raised cuticles that allow moisture to easily enter the hair shaft,” says Carmichael. While this is great for absorption, it also makes the hair more prone to losing moisture quickly. “Think of it as a door that’s constantly open, allowing the good to flow in and out at the same rate,” she says. This results in the hair feeling dry and having a frizzy appearance. On the contrary, low-porosity hair has tightly packed cuticles that make it more difficult for hair to absorb moisture. “With this type, water and products tend to sit on the surface rather than penetrate the cuticle, which can result in dry hair and an excess of product buildup, plus lower product efficacy,” says Carmichael.
Of the two, low-porosity hair is the most buzzy right now. Heath explains that the hair type is having a major moment because it falls in line with the low-maintenance hair-care trend circulating on social media. “Low-porosity hair tends to look shinier and require less washing, which is ideal for the styles driving the trend,” she says. It also works well with lightweight, water-based products that won’t weigh the hair down. At this point, you may be wondering which porosity type you have. While your texture (fine, curly or straight) is a big element, it’s important to note that external factors can also affect hair porosity. According to trichologist Kerry E Yates, some of the most common factors include heat damage from tools, chemical services, chlorine, low-quality water and environmental factors like wind and sun.
The best products to use and what to avoid
If you have high-porosity hair, the pros note you should prioritize rich and hydrating products, like deep conditioners and hair masks. “High-porosity hair often feels dry to the touch and can be prone to damage, so it’s important to avoid certain products that can exacerbate the existing issues,” says Carmichael. Avoiding sulfate-based shampoos or products with high alcohol levels ensures you don’t strip the hair of its natural oils and further dry it out. Heath recommends adding a moisturizing bond product, like Anatomy Haircare’s Hair-Bond Re-Construction ($55) to help keep moisture trapped inside the cuticle.
For those with low-porosity hair, thick creams and heavy products should be avoided at all costs. “These products often just sit on top and cause buildup,” explains Heath. Instead, the pros suggest using water-based products, like leave-in conditioners, for better absorption. “Naturally derived products are a good option because they are water-soluble and can easily be removed from the hair after shampooing,” says Carmichael.
