We all want flawless, perfect makeup. Whether that means a light, no makeup-makeup look or a full, glamorous beat, the end goal is the same. Any makeup artist will tell you that the key to achieving your desired look lies in understanding your skin’s primary undertones. But, according to TikTok, there’s much more to know. The contrast makeup theory, a belief that makeup shades and colors should complement all your facial features and tones, is shaking up how we approach makeup. While the idea isn’t new, the theory has recently become buzzy on TikTok thanks to French makeup artist and content creator Aliénor and her viral contrast filter. But what exactly is contrast, and how do you use it to perfect your makeup looks? Ahead, we spoke to three industry experts to find out everything there is to know about the contrast makeup theory.
Featured experts
- Jamie Greenberg is a celebrity makeup artist and the founder of JamieMakeup
- Tamara Boyd is a professional makeup artist and ambassador for Black Radiance
- Sophia Porter is a celebrity makeup artist
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What is the contrast makeup theory?
“The contrast makeup theory is an approach to using makeup shades complementary to the natural contrast of your facial features,” says celebrity makeup artist Sophia Porter. In a nutshell, it looks at how light or dark your features are, such as skin tone, hair and eye color, and uses the most favorable colors to create your look. “The theory works with three levels: high, medium and low contrast, and it helps you select the makeup colors that best enhance your unique features,” says Tamara Boyd, a professional makeup artist.
Concept-wise, the theory is pretty simple and is all about harmonizing your facial features with your makeup. The first step, finding your contrast level, is also easy thanks to Aliénor’s filter, which works with two simple steps. First, you select your skin tone level, either light, medium or deep. Then you try on different contrasts, choosing between high, medium and low to find the combination that best suits your features. In her videos, Aliénor explains that the filter measures the difference in value between your face, eyes, eyebrows and hair to determine your contrast level. Once you’ve found your combination, you can use the results to select the most complimentary makeup shades.
What are the three different contrasts?
Low contrast
Low contrast refers to minimal variation between the features. This means the skin tone, eye and hair color are all the same—think dark brown eyes, a deep complexion and rich brunette or black hair. If you have low contrast levels, Boyd says that softer shades are best since these shades gently enhance the features while maintaining a subtle look. “Neutral tones help highlight your natural features and have a soft, no makeup-makeup look.
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Medium contrast
Medium contrast speaks to people who have moderate differences in their hair, skin and eye tone. “These people have a more blended look, where features don’t stand out as much but still have some degree of contrast,” says Boyd. She explains that makeup for medium contrast individuals should incorporate balanced tones and enough color to define but not overwhelm features. According to Greenberg, emphasizing rosy features like the cheeks or even a more defined eye look looks best for medium contrast levels.
High contrast
High contrast levels refer to individuals with a stark contrast between their features. “Think of someone with jet-black hair and light skin,” says Boyd. Porter explains that people with higher contrast levels look best with bold shades and tones complimenting their bold features. “Smoky eyes, red lips and anything with a pop of color all work well to add to the dramatic contrast between hair, skin and eyes,” says Greenberg.
