We're always looking for the next big thing in skin care. But it can be hard to separate fact from, let's say, creative marketing. If you're curious about the microscopic marine sponges being touted as a "liquid microneedling treatment" in a bottle, we are just as intrigued. Enter spicules, an exfoliator, product-enhancer and maybe even the next big trend in skin care.
Featured Experts
- Anna Chacon is a board-certified dermatologist practicing nationwide telehealth
- Victoria Fu and Gloria Lu are cosmetic chemists and founders of Chemist Confessions
What are spicules?
"Spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures derived from marine sponges or synthesized from bioactive ingredients," says national telehealth dermatologist Anna Chacon, MD.
According to cosmetic chemist Victoria Fu, spicules work together to form the skeleton of marine sponges. "In nature, spicule geometry and size can vary greatly," she says. "In skin care, spicules are typically hollow, needle-like structures that can even be loaded with skin-care actives."
Are spicules really 'liquid microneedling'?
"This is more of a marketing term," says cosmetic chemist Gloria Lu. "These are actually very different concepts. Microneedling creates precise micro-wounds that are created all across the skin's surface. When these wounds heal, this kicks off processes like collagen production."
On the other hand, spicules are microscopic, yes. But there's not the same precision as with microneedling treatments.
"Topical application of spicules is more random in terms of the deposition on the skin, and it acts more as an actives booster and possible exfoliator," adds Fu. "We would say there's a much better understanding of the benefits you can expect from in-office microneedling than spicules."
That said, skin care is looking to use spicules in a manner that's at least similar in concept to microneedling.
How do spicules work in skin care?
"It's true that spicules penetrate the skin to create microchannels, which does happen with microneedling," Dr. Chacon says. "Those microchannels help deliver active ingredients deeper into the skin while stimulating collagen production."
But there's still more to learn about what these micro structures can do for our skin.
"We don’t fully understand all of spicules’ skin benefits quite yet," Lu explains. "We wouldn’t consider spicule skin care a must in a skin-care routine but for those feeling brave and are looking to boost their anti-aging routine, this can be worthy of a try."
Should spicules be a part of your routine?
It's hard to say if spicules would be a benefit to your skin-care routine. Cosmetic chemists Lu and Fu caution against overusing products that contain this ingredient.
"However, keep in mind that the question of 'how to use' doesn’t feel completely answered or well understood just yet," Lu says. "Based on the available data and our experience using spicule products so far, we don’t believe this is a product that needs to be used every day or needs to be used in high concentrations. We also recommend to follow up with a solid moisturizing routine after applying spicules."
And if you have sensitive skin, spicules might be a skip for now.
"Given the newness of spicules, we wouldn’t recommend this for sensitive skin," Fu explains. "Spicules aim to improve active ingredient penetration, which means the skin barrier must slightly alter for this to occur. For sensitive skin types, or those with compromised skin barriers, any change to the skin barrier is typically not recommended."
That said, Dr. Chacon expects to see spicules in skin care more often. "I do anticipate that spicules will gain more popularity, especially in professional treatments and at-home skin care targeting fine lines, pigmentation and overall skin rejuvenation," she says. "However, as with any new ingredient, it's important to ensure the formulation is well-balanced to minimize potential irritation."
