Retinol is dubbed the gold-standard ingredient for signs of aging, acne and more, but it’s also known to be irritating. If that shiny new bottle of retinol backfires and wreaks havoc on your skin, it may be time to switch to another formula. Not all products work for everyone, and sometimes regular purging can turn into serious irritation overnight.
“Retinol is under the retinoids family, or derivatives of vitamin A that work on different layers of skin,” says celebrity aesthetician Nerida Joy, Jennifer Garner’s longtime facialist. “Retinoids work to buffer the outer layer of skin while also building a really strong support system underneath with your collagen and elastin fibers.”
“We know retinol is fabulous to keep our skin looking youthful and toned. However, some factors or formulations can definitely be too strong,” Joy continues. “Certain times or seasons of the year, the climate and environment we’re in, and our own mental and physical health can all make a retinol ‘too much.’”
Here’s how to tell if your retinol is working (or isn’t), according to skin-care experts.
Featured Experts:
- Carmen Castilla, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York
- Purvisha Patel, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in Germantown, TN
- Nerida Joy is a celebrity aesthetician based in Los Angeles
- Tammy Fender is a holistic skin-care expert and founder of her eponymous skin-care brand, based in Palm Beach, FL
Signs That Your Retinol Is Working
“A tightening feeling after washing your skin, and mild peeling, are clues that your retinol is working,” says Germantown, TN dermatologist Purvisha Patel, MD. Not everyone experiences dryness or peeling, though, Dr. Patel notes. If you don’t, it doesn’t necessarily mean your retinol isn’t working; it may simply need more time. New York dermatologist Carmen Castilla, MD adds, “The skin will be brighter in appearance overall —more luminous. You should also notice an improved appearance of skin texture. It will be smoother in general, though this is a subtle change.”
Other visible improvements include the fading of dark spots or freckles. “However, you need to use sunscreen in combination with your retinol or retinoid for this to happen,” Dr. Castilla advises. If you’ve ever looked at the label on a retinol product, you’ve seen the “warning” that it can make skin more sensitive to sun exposure. Protecting your skin from the sun is one thing, but you’re also protecting your investment in retinol and its effects (UV damage causes wrinkles, and retinol reduces wrinkles).
Dr. Patel says, “Retinol exfoliates the skin to help boost collagen production, so if you notice a decrease in fine lines and plumper skin, your product is working.” Joy adds that it’s also a great product for reducing acne scarring, as it resurfaces the skin. However, Dr. Castilla explains that it’s unlikely to noticeably improve deep-set wrinkles, and in-office treatments like fillers, peels and lasers are the best way to address them.
Is Retinol Purging Normal?
For many people, purging is a common part of the retinol user experience. “Retinol speeds up cellular turnover, which can cause congestion to come to the surface as the skin is adjusting,” says Tammy Fender, holistic skin-care expert and founder of her eponymous skin-care brand. “This reaction is known as purging and can involve clogged pores and minor breakouts.” It can last a couple of weeks (sometimes longer), but it doesn’t mean you did anything wrong. However, Joy says the skin doesn’t necessarily have to purge at all with the introduction of a retinol or retinoid. “I don’t believe you have to go through this stage to get the benefits of retinol use. If you prefer, just change up your product and go with something lighter and gentler.”
How to Use Retinol
Retinol breaks down in sunlight and can increase sun sensitivity, so it’s a nighttime-only ingredient. Apply a pea-size amount (more is not better) on clean, dry skin, waiting a few minutes after washing your face so your skin’s pH can adjust. “Don’t go too strong too quickly,” Joy says, advising people to be careful with prescription-strength products, especially beginners. “Start slow with a lower concentration of retinol, like 0.1 or 0.3 percent, and use it two or three nights a week.”
The goal, according to Joy, is to work up to using it every night. “And to be able to use it every night, you’ll want to mix it with other things, like good moisturizers, or even a hydrating mask,” she says. Most people can’t just use retinol by itself and get dramatic results.
Under your retinol/moisturizer mix, Joy suggests layering another serum, like an antioxidant formula or one that supports the skin barrier. “The older you get, the more layering you have to do—layer your serums; it’s really important.”
How Long Does Retinol Take to Work?
Retinol can take eight to 12 weeks for full results to sink in, but the process typically happens in phases. “There’s definitely an adjustment phase for a few weeks, which is when purging can occur,” says Fender. By the end of that window, changes in appearance and texture should be noticeable. Between two and three months is when most clinical studies show measurable improvement in fine lines and skin smoothness, which result from the collagen boost.
Signs That Your Retinol Isn’t Working
A retinol can fail to work for you in one of two ways: it’s too strong for your skin, or it’s not strong enough to make a difference.
It’s too strong. According to Joy, signs of overusing retinol or using a formula that’s too strong include skin ruddiness, irritation, inflammation and thinning. “In some cases, overuse can even cause ‘retinol burn,’” adds Fender. “This is when the reaction causes damage and skin becomes highly sensitive or extremely irritated. But what’s not as easy to see is the long-term effects that overuse can have. And, in some rare cases, it can thin the skin and cause it to look more advanced in age.”
Keep in mind that mild dryness and peeling in the first few weeks are normal. It’s persistent redness, stinging or raw, sensitive skin that signals a problem.
It’s not strong enough. If you’ve used your retinol consistently for about three months and see no change in texture, tone or fine lines, the formula may be too weak or too heavily buffered to make a difference for your skin.
What to Do If Your Retinol Isn’t Working
If you are experiencing side effects like irritation, ruddiness and/or heavy flaking, the best solution is to first give your skin a break from the retinol. Nourish it with barrier-boosting ingredients like ceramides to restore it to optimal health. “It’s important when using retinol-type formulas to give your skin a break in order to allow it to replenish,” Fender says, recommending her soothing Plant Milk Serum ($135) and calming Intensive Repair Balm ($150). “Skin needs downtime!”
Then, when you return to using retinol, lighten up on the strength you’re using and see if that helps. Over-the-counter retinol typically ranges from about 0.01 percent to 1 percent, so step down to a lower concentration than the one that irritated your skin. “Retinoids are all members of the vitamin A family, and they all have different strengths and molecular weights,” Joy explains. “The prescription-only Retin-A—also known as retinoic acid—is the most aggressive and will have a harsher effect on the skin. Retinyl esters are the least potent form of retinoids and considered quite gentle. This is because retinyl esters take three steps to convert into retinoic acid on the skin. Examples of retinyl esters include retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate, and they are found in over-the-counter products.” Retinol falls somewhere in between and takes two steps to convert to retinoic acid.
You can also switch to a retinol alternative. Dr. Patel recommends plant-based bakuchiol. “It is not as irritating as retinol in the cell turnover process, resulting in less redness, peeling and sun sensitivity,” she explains. “It is better suited for sensitive skin, and it’s a great ingredient in body products. I like Visha Skincare Top 2 Toe Body Wash ($25), which can be easily applied to the whole body without irritating the skin.”
On the flip side, if you’re not experiencing side effects or seeing results, consider increasing the strength of your retinol. Or try a serum instead of a cream. “Creams typically include moisturizing ingredients that buffer the retinol a bit,” says Joy.
