Gel Casts Are the Key to Ultra-Defined Curls

Maintaining natural curls is a full-time job, especially during the summer when humidity and heat threaten frizz at every turn. From defining the curls to shaping them and fighting flyaways, there’s never a dull moment. Those with curly hair know firsthand that technique and the right products are key to making a style last. Enter the gel cast—a hard and crunchy method to defining, shaping and maintaining natural curls—that’s sweeping TikTok. While the method is far from new, the platform has delivered refined techniques for creating a cast that results in fluffy, soft curls. Moisture retention is optimal for any curly hairstyle, and the gel cast is one of the best ways to lock in hydration and sustain your style for days. Ahead, we chatted with two hairstylists on everything to know about gel casts, including how to get the perfect shape and how to break them with ease.

Featured experts

• Naomi Dove is a hairstylist and the Aveda North America artistic director of texture

• Leysa Carrillo is a hair colorist and curly hair expert

• Joey Scandizzo is a celebrity hairstylist and the co-creative director of ELEVEN Australia

What is a gel cast?

Styling curly hair requires an arsenal of products, including gels, creams and mousses to define the curls. That said, a curl or gel cast is exactly what it sounds like. The products are used to shape the curls and hold them in place, forming a hard shell as they dry. According to Naomi Dove, a hairstylist and the Aveda North America artistic director of texture, applying gel to a wet style and letting it dry forms an outer layer of protection around the curls that can be broken at a later time. This method locks the curl in place and ensures they remain hydrated once dry. Gel casts have their benefits. "The cast protects your curl pattern as it dries, locking in shape and defining your curls," says hairstylist Leysa Carrillo. She explains that a good cast means fewer refresh days, which saves time and maintains curl integrity. Dove adds that they can also provide protection against humidity and prolong the results of your style once your hair is dry. But with the good comes some bad. "Over-applying gel or skipping the clarifying step can cause product residue to build up," notes Carrillo. To prevent dryness underneath the cast, she recommends using a deeply moisturizing leave-in treatment, such as Redken All Soft Mega Curls Hydramelt Leave-In Treatment ($32), before creating the cast. Breaking the shell also requires some attention to detail. “If the cast isn’t broken properly, it can leave your hair feeling crunchy or hard and can cause flaking depending on what products are used," says Dove.

How to create a gel cast

Creating a gel cast is pretty easy when you have the right products. ”Gel is one of the greatest styling products for someone with curly hair who wants to defy frizz, add shine and ensure a long wear out of their style,” says Dove. It’s also the key product to forming a gel cast as it hardens around the curls. When it comes to gel casts, the experts note that prepping the hair beforehand is essential to the final look. “Start with wet hair and use products that lightly moisturize the curls,” says celebrity hairstylist Joey Scandizzo. In these initial steps, he recommends keeping styling products light so they don’t weigh down the hair before the cast is formed. Once your hair is clean and prepped, begin working the gel into the curls, coating them entirely and scrunching them to add definition. Carrillo says that a simple raking and scrunching method ensures the product is evenly distributed from roots to ends. “Make sure you’re using plenty of water while setting the hair with a gel, because it can get tacky as it dries,” says Dove. However, if you find that you do need to rework the curls after they begin to dry, she suggests spraying the hair generously with water to reactivate it. After the curls have been coated with gel, it’s time to set the cast, using either a diffuser or air drying.

Breaking the cast

This step isn’t just satisfying, it’s also important for creating gorgeous curls that are frizz-free and soft. “The best way to break a gel cast is by using a hybrid cream-oil product, such as Aveda’s Nutriplenish Overnight Serum ($56) or Botanical Repair Overnight Serum ($56),” says Dove. Breaking the cast created by the gel involves using the scrunching method used to form it. However, it needs to be done correctly to remove the shell and add the oil to the curls. “You should be able to feel the cast on the hair once it's completely dry,” says Dove. To break it, she suggests pumping the product into your hands first and then scrunching it into the hair. “This softens the cast without disturbing the curls or adding too much frizz,” she adds.