For anyone who grew up getting their nails done or accompanying their mom to the salon as I did, the graduation from regular polish manicures to gel polish manicures was a universal and exciting one. For decades, if you were raised a regular manicure girlie, it was only a matter of time before you transitioned to the longer-lasting world of gel, but a recent development in Europe might be changing that tune, as the European Union just banned one of the most widely used ingredients in gel nail polishes, majorly impacting salons across the region.
Featured Expert
- Erica De Los Santos is a celebrity nail artist
Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO) Is Officially Banned by European Union
Over the past several years, the discourse surrounding the safety of ingredients inside nail polishes—both gel and regular—has been handled with much more scrutiny, as beauty consumers become more cognizant of the ingredients inside the products they use most. While we've long accepted gel manicures as safe, the European Union has just reignited the conversation surrounding gel manicures and nail health, as the organization announced yesterday the ban of commonly used gel polish ingredient trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO).
"TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide) is a photoinitiator used in gel nail polish," explains celebrity nail artist Erica De Los Santos. "When exposed to UV or LED light, it absorbs the energy and produces free radicals, which trigger the gel to polymerize (harden) into a durable finish. It’s especially effective under LED lamps and helps keep whites and light colors clear and bright." In recent years, though, multiple studies have found a correlation between exposure to TPO and fertility issues, prompting the EU to ban the use of the ingredient until further research is done. "It is said there’s credible evidence that it could harm reproductive health or potentially increase cancer risk and may contribute to allergic reactions or sensitivity, especially with repeated exposure," De Los Santos says on the common gel polish ingredient.
What does this new regulation mean for nail salons across countries in the European Union? Following the ban, all nail salons in any of the EU's 27 member states and all countries that follow the trade bloc's regulations are required to stop selling TPO-based nail polishes and safely dispose of all their current stock. "Consumers should know that many brands are now offering HEMA-free and TPO-free formulas," says De Los Santos. "Some use newer photoinitiators like TPO-L or other LED-curing agents that are considered safer but still give strong, long-lasting results. It’s also important to understand that not all gel products contain TPO—so checking labels, brand websites or Safety Data Sheets (SDS) can help you make an informed choice."
