5 Beauty Treatment Upgrades to Try This Year

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This article first appeared in the Fall 2020 issue of New Beauty. Click here to subscribe

Aesthetic trends are forever evolving: Yesterday’s Scrunchie is today’s Lele Sadoughi headband; face shaving gave birth to modern dermaplaning; and a heavy cheek highlight has been tossed aside in favor of glistening dewy skin. Here, five trending hair, skin and nail fixes that are carving out a new place in our regular beauty regimes.

OLD: Microblading
NEW: Brow Lamination

“Think of it like a perm for your brows,” says celebrity brow artist Giselle Soto. Microblading has long taken over the brow game, but brow lamination has made its way onto grooming menus to help fill in the gaps for fuller, more put-together brows. “The main difference between the two is that lamination focuses on your natural eyebrow hair,” explains Soto. “It separates and redirects hair via a not-so-harsh chemical process to get a desired look, whereas microblading is a form of semipermanent tattooing.”

With microblading, which can last up to two years, the technique mimics your hair color, texture and direction of growth. Lamination, Soto says, uses what is already there to “comb over” sparse areas and straighten unruly hair, with results lasting six to eight weeks. “Lamination can be done alone or combined with microblading,” she adds. “For example, someone with fuller, darker brows may just need brow lamination versus someone with more sparse hair who might want microblading to give the illusion of fuller brows, and then follow up with lamination once the brows have healed for an even fuller effect.”

OLD: Dip Powder Nails
NEW: Press-On Nails

“COVID-19 forced people everywhere to take matters into their own hands—pun intended— because salons were forced to close,” says celebrity manicurist Mazz Hanna. “You would be surprised how many nail artists have pivoted and are now offering the most incredible hand-painted press-on nails for their clients— it’s truly inspiring!” While many dip powder devotees may have not yet made the switch, some have found nail nirvana using a technique Hanna says she’s been doing on celebrity clients for years. “Pressons have been a go-to for both my clients and myself. If I have an event or photo shoot and don’t have time for a manicure, I can pop them on and have a fabulous manicure in less than five minutes,” she adds.

The old stickerglue process from the ‘80s Lee Press-On Nail days is long gone, and Hanna says materials like nail guards—thin, Saran Wrap– like sheaths used between the nail and the glue—allow for easier removal without damaging the nail plate. “You can expect press-ons to last anywhere from one to two weeks, depending on how they are applied and how rough you are on your nails,” Hanna says. “I use them on celebrities when I’m trying to achieve length without a long-term commitment like gel extensions.”

OLD: Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP)
NEW: Platelet-Rich Fibrin Matrix (PRFM)

We’ve come to know PRP, which involves drawing a patient’s blood and spinning it in a centrifuge to extract growth factors, as the secret sauce that goes into many of today’s rejuvenating skin and hair treatments. However, a new incarnation of growth factors called PRFM—which do not have FDA approval yet—is also gaining traction in doctors’ offices. New York oculoplastic surgeon Irene Gladstein, MD says the difference between the two is a protective layer that is generated while the platelet-rich fibrin matrix is being produced. “This protective layer, or scaffolding, is what prolongs the life span and improves the stability of the platelets.”

So how much longer can these growth factors last compared to those found in traditional PRP? Dr. Gladstein says that once injected, the platelets in PRP last for a few seconds to minutes, “but with PRFM, enveloped platelets tend to persist in the tissues for days.” While using PRFM, Dr. Gladstein has seen increased hair regrowth, improvement in skin rejuvenation and lightening of under-eye pigmentation.

OLD: The Spa Facial
NEW: Medical-Grade Salt Facials

Not all facials are created equal. We’ve come to know the traditional spa facial as the four-step cleanse, exfoliate (and extract), massage and mask process that gives skin a muchneeded boost. Today, treatments like HydraFacial and DiamondGlow have many facial enthusiasts making the move to doctors’ offices and medispas for a supercharged experience. Now, the SaltFacial has entered the conversation, and it’s not, as one might think, a facial treatment performed inside of a salt room.

“The name is actually a bit misleading,” explains Indianapolis, IN facial plastic surgeon Greg Chernoff, MD. “SaltFacial Skin Renewal Therapy combines three medical technologies in one platform, so it is a medicalgrade treatment as opposed to a ‘facial.’” Using a handpiece, microfine natural sea salt is dragged across the skin to exfoliate and allow customized serums and topicals to penetrate. Step two is an ultrasound treatment, which provides firming benefits, and the third and final step, LED phototherapy is tailored to each individual’s skin type. Using this three-prong approach, Dr. Chernoff says he’s seeing positive results for inflammation concerns, anti-aging, and acne and scar therapy.

OLD: Silicone Injections
NEW: Silicone Microdroplets

When you hear “silicone injections,” you might think of the kind soap opera stars had placed in their lips in the ‘90s, but those aren’t safe, let alone legal anymore. Now, doctors are utilizing microdroplet injections of silicone to treat acne scars and chicken pox marks. “Medical-grade silicone is very safe to treat acne scars,” says New York dermatologist Howard Sobel, MD. “Silikon 1000, a type of medical-grade silicone, has been FDA-approved for medical treatment and used safely ‘off-label’ for cosmetic treatment for many years.” Using very small increments of Silikon is essential because the treatment is permanent. “The silicone can also stimulate new collagen to form around the area, so it is also very important not to inject less than one month apart,” explains Dr. Sobel.

Although Spokane, WA dermatologist Wm. Philip Werschler, MD does not perform these injections, he notes this approach is best for patients who no longer have inflammatory acne activity and have atrophic scars that are easily smoothed when stretched. “Because silicone doesn’t get reabsorbed or break down over time like other fillers, the effect is very long-lasting,” he adds. However, it’s important to note there are risks associated with silicone injections, which include complications like infections, scarring, granulomas, and chronic inflammatory reaction

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