How To Get Stubborn Hair To Hold A Curl
Sometimes our hair seems to have a mind of its own and forgets who’s in charge. For many of us the biggest hair battle we face is trying to hold a curl that lasts longer than an hour (let alone 20 minutes!). But before you disregard your curling iron, follow these expert tips to make your curls last all day.
There are a few reasons why your hair won’t hold its curls. One explanation: it's too heavy. “This can happen with long, straight, thick hair that is bluntly cut,” says Nicholas Penna, Jr., owner and lead stylist at SalonCapri in Newton and Dedham, MA. His fix? Try adding subtle layers to lighten the heaviness. Another reason could be that you’re due for a trim. Hair is less likely to hold a curl when it’s damaged and has split ends. That’s why regular trims are a must. Overly conditioned hair or hair that lacks moisture can also be difficult to curl, and it can be especially tough after certain chemical treatments.
It could also be your hair texture that is the source of your problems. Fine hair doesn’t hold curls very well because it has a slippery texture. “This hair texture is very sensitive to products and the amount you use,” says Angela Kalinowski, a hairstylist at the Warren Tricomi Salon in Los Angeles. “Too much can weigh it down and not enough can create fly-aways.”
Healthy medium to thick hair holds curls the best because it has a even balance of protein and moisture that’s perfect for styling. What’s more, “second day” hair, or hair that was washed and blown out the previous day, is ideal. “It’s easier to style hair the next day once the hair’s natural oils and texture have had time to equilibrate,” says Penna.
Maintaining your curls is all in the preparation. Start by using a light weight volumizing shampoo and conditioner. Kalinowski loves using VoCé Lift It Volumizing Shampoo ($23) and Conditioner ($25). If you have thicker hair, use a volumizing mousse to help lighten up your locks and hold the curl.
Next, spray your hair with a heat-activated hairspray and let it sit for about a minute before you curl it. Penna recommends L'Oreal Professionnel Texture Expert Infinium 3 Strong Hold Working Spray ($24) or Kérastase Double Force Controle Ultime ($38). Then, curl your hair in small sections, and clip each one up to let it set. “This will allow the cuticle to cool and close while it's in the curl shape, making it stay a lot longer once you take the clips out,” says Penna.
As for the best tool to use, he says that almost any ceramic curling iron will work for thick hair. It’s thinner hair that is a bit trickier, “Overnight sponge curlers or hot rollers will produce a better curling outcome than a typical regular curler.”
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