The 2024 Skin Care Ins and Outs, According to Dermatologists

In: Growth factors in skin care and in-office

New York dermatologist Jody A. Levine, MD says growth factors are in for 2024. She recommends seeking out products full of these sensitive skin alternatives to retinol. “In a similar vein, PRP and exosomes will continue to be a growing trend for skin rejuvenation and regeneration,” she adds.

New York dermatologist Marina Peredo, MD agrees, adding, “I believe the future will be focused more on regenerative medicine, using PRP and exosomes post-procedures.” She also thinks we’ll see a rise in regenerative fillers that can stimulate collagen production.

In: Longer lasting neuromodulators

Both Dr. Levine and Peredo say neuromodulators with longer-lasting results are gaining momentum. They both point to Daxxify, the longer-lasting alternative to Botox Cosmetic, as one to watch.

In: Oils

“Face oils, hair oils, body oils, lip oils, coconut oil, argan oil, batana oil,” are in, says cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson. “Some of these oils have gotten a bad rap by being accused of causing breakouts. In reality, it’s all about the art of formulation that allows these oils to be used at just the right levels to allow for adequate moisturization without the clogging.”

In: nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD)

“I predict we will see more nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD), a co-enzyme in cells that facilitates DNA repair and gives cells energy and nutrition,” says Dr. Peredo. “It has shown powerful anti-aging effects, elevating this ingredient in skin-care solutions.”

In: preventative skin care

“The more advanced the skin concern, the harder it is to treat,” says Robinson. “As soon as you begin to see a skin-care concern, begin treating it with a product that contains a gold-standard ingredient, he advises.

Robinson predicts preventative skin care will pick up with people using vitamin C, hydroxy acids and retinoids to combat skin concerns before they even appear. “And of course, wear sunscreen every day to prevent damage.”

Dr. Peredo notes that this will be especially popular as younger consumers begin to take an interest in skin care. “The average patient is becoming more knowledgeable in ingredients, especially younger generations, due partially to social media and the interest in preventative skin-care,” she says.

In: laser newness

Dr. Levine predicts that laser rejuvenation will be big in 2024. Dr. Peredo notes that she’s implemented new lasers that use AI, like Miria by AVAVA, and she predicts those will take off this year.

In: peptides

“This ingredient will enter the skin-care hall of fame, joining the ranks of vitamin C, hydroxy acids and retinoids as gold-standard skin-care ingredients,” predicts Robinson.

He points to the mounting clinical data on peptides and their versatility for the surge in popularity. For example, Robinson’s own new neuropeptide product, BeautyStat Peptide Wrinkle Relaxing Moisturizer ($72) can relax the look of expression lines and wrinkles.

In: pairing filler with other treatments

Filler can complement a handful of popular treatments, and Dr. Levine thinks this practice will grow in popularity this year. She predicts an increase in “newer fillers that can be layered with older ones for a complete, yet natural result” and filler in conjunction with a thread lift.

Out: 10-step skin-care routines

Lengthy skin-care routines became popular during the pandemic, but Dr. Peredo feels these extended, 12-step regimens are out this year. She says data indicates multi-use products are becoming more popular as consumers become more educated and lean towards a more edited, targeted approach. As a result, “multi-use items with power ingredients will continue to rise.”

Out: skin-care salads

Salads are generally good for us, but not those of the skin care variation. “Stop trying to toss every single trending ingredient into your skin-care routine,” warns Robinson. “At the least, you don’t know what ingredient is actually working for you; at worst, you can get irritated and potentially damage your skin barrier.”

Out: hydroquinone

“Though it’s a great Rx ingredient for those under a dermatologist’s care, there are so many OTC alternatives that are gentler, safer and almost as effective at evening skin tone and treating hyperpigmentation,” says Robinson. He recommends swapping hydroquinone for vitamin C, glutathione or tranexamic acid.

Out: skipping the basics

“Not wearing SPF and not moisturizing will always be out. At the least, a good SPF and moisturizer are necessary in your skin regimen,” says Dr. Levine. “You should also seek advice from a board-certified dermatologist to develop a personalized skin regimen that’s right for you because TikTok skin-care advice is not the way to go.”

Out: DIY skin care

“Stop trying to play kitchen chemist. Leave it to the professionals,” Robinson says. Chemists know which ingredients to use and the right percentages to deliver results.

Out: slugging

Slugging was a huge trend last year, but Robinson says it’s time for it to phase out. “There are tons of moisturizers out there. No need to apply an occlusive product on top of another,” he says. “Just find one rich moisturizer that does it in one step.”