Eye shadow creasing is the fastest way to take your look from glam to grunge (not in a good way). To get to the bottom of what causes it, we asked Edgar Dominquez, global educator for jane iredale, for some insight on how to avoid the most common application faux pas that cause unwanted creasing.
Applying eye shadow directly on oily eyelids:
“What most people don’t know is that there’s no such thing as an oily eyelid,” says Dominquez. “You don’t have oil glands around the eye area—what’s really causing your eye shadow to crease is the shape of your eye and the fact that you blink thousands of times a day. If you have a hooded lid, there are ways to keep your shadow from creasing. The key here is an eye primer, or blotting eyelids gently with facial blotting papers to help absorb the excess moisture.” We recommend Benefit Stay Don’t Stray Eyeshadow Primer ($26) and TATCHA Original Aburatorigami ($12) blotting papers.
Using a liquid foundation/concealer on your eyelids as an eyeshadow base:
“Using a liquid foundation or concealer as an eye base is not your best option,” says Dominquez, who explains that most foundations and concealers usually create too much moisture on your eyelids. “Moist eyelids are not capable of absorbing excess oil, and due to their consistencies, they will begin to crease and product will settle into fine lines. Foundations or concealers with oil-controlling properties can be very drying to the eye.” If you need a quick fix, Dominquez recommends dusting a translucent powder like jane iredale Amazing Matte ($35) with a brush on your entire eyelid to help absorb any unwanted moisture.
Applying eyeshadow with your fingers or disposable eye sponge applicators vs. using proper brushes:
“Fingers and eye sponge applicators don’t apply eye shadow evenly and it’s very difficult to achieve a polished finish,” Dominquez explains, adding that most makeup brands have a variety of makeup brushes with different textures, bristles and shapes for a reason. “The denser an eye shadow brush is, the more pigment you will pick up. When you apply eye shadow, you want to press and gently tap it on your eyelid and then blend it out. The more you blend, the less likely it is that your shadows will crease.”
Applying eye cream directly on the eyelids:
“Eye creams can work wonders under our eyes, but just like some foundations and concealers, they can destroy our eye shadow,” Dominquez warns. “Applying an eye cream onto your eyelids will create too much moisture, making it impossible for your eye shadow to stay put and not crease. If you need to apply eye cream to the top portion of your eye, you should only apply it at night and just on the brow bone. The skin is so thin around the eye area, so a little bit of product will go a long way.”
Applying too much eye shadow and not pressing it into your skin:
Dominquez says that applying too many layers of eye shadow leads to creasing. “The reason why many women apply layers on top of layers of their eye shadow is due to the lack of pigment found in the shadows. Doing this will not only make your lids appear heavy, but it will also cause the shadow to crease,” he adds. “I suggest investing in high-quality eye shadows and pigments so you end up using less on your eyes, leaving less room for creasing simultaneously.”
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